Ardbeg The Ultimate 10yo ‘Ten’ 46% old label, 2006 5cl

Ardbeg 10yo ‘Ten’ (46%, OB, 2006)

Colour: Hhite wine.

Nose: very, well, 'Ardbeg'. Wood smoke, peat smoke, cigarette smoke, ashes, tar, sea air, kelp and then a little more roundness and fruitiness (ripe apples, fresh walnuts) plus finally hints of lager beer. Not hugely complex but balance is perfect.

Mouth: Peat, gentian root, limejuice, green apples, ginger, pepper and a little salt and then a little more sweetness than in earlier versions – or so it seems.

Finish: Long, grassier and ashier, the sweetness having vanished. Also less salt than in earlier versions. Leaves your mouth very clean.

Comments: Classic and straight, big peat but a little gentler than it used to be.